Indulging like a local - Garhwali Specialties in Mussoorie

The aroma of locally-grown spices or infused tea, the rustic odour of a handful of lentils straight from a jute sack, the sweet fragrance of roasted chestnuts straight from the oven, or fresh peanut-butter synthesized from peanuts.

Mussoorie is a small hill station nestled in the Garhwal Himalayas. A former British colony, this has left a lasting impression on the cuisine and lifestyle of its inhabitants. From bakeries to local produce grown in the Garhwal Himalayas, there is so much more to walking along the Mall or visiting Kempty Fall. So the next time you plan a weekend getaway to this hamlet nestled amidst pine and deodar trees, pick up some of the fresh produce, local and indigenous spices, lentils, fruits, and nuts, or try some of the local cuisine. 

Jakhiya - Spices 

Resembling mustard seeds, jakhiya is obtained from the seed of the Cleome viscosa plant and is black in colour. Possessing a sharp, pungent smell and crunchy taste,  Garhwalis prefer jakhiya over cumin and mustard seed for tempering. It is used to temper saags, vegetables, curries, and pulses. The leaves of jakhiya are also used to cook green vegetables in villages.

The plant is used as a traditional medicine for treating fever, inflammation, liver ailments, bronchitis, and diarrhoea.

Jakhiya is sold in most rashan/kirana stores in Landour market. 

Jhingora - Millet

A type of millet, the de-husked grains are light brown in colour and somewhat oval in shape, resembling the glamorous and in-demand quinoa. It is consumed extensively in Navratris during fasting. It can be converted into delicious kheer. High on energy, light on the stomach, and extremely nutritious, this millet can also be cooked like rice, and with a few veggies, and a pulav/upma can be prepared.  All you have to do is first dry roast it till it develops a nutty taste, then wash it in a strainer and boil it in water till it is cooked. Can be purchased once again in Kirana stores or from vendors during the winterline festival. 

Home-made Peanut Butter, Jams, Cheese

Landour in Mussoorie was once a safe haven for injured soldiers of the British army who were nursed back to good health by the team of nurses that were housed in an areas hence, called Sisters Bazaar. The nurses working at the military sanatorium had their barracks near the main market. The Britishers loved their tea, jam, and cheese, which started being sold here. American missionaries came here in the 1830s, and soon, Landour became one of the first places in India where peanut butter was made and sold commercially. Post-independence, many of these nurses, shopkeepers, and manufacturers left for England and left behind their equipment and recipe with. These peanut butter, cheese food-processing machines were passed into the hands of Anil Prakash’s family, who began manufacturing and selling them for the Indian market. Catering to European and American tastes, Prakash’s Store is famous for its peanut butter (chunky or smooth), home-made cheese, jams, and preserves. Our first PM, Pandit Jawaharlal Nehru, and his sister Vijay Lakshmi Pandit were also customers there.

Today Sister's Bazaar also houses two bakeries and cafes, namely Landour Bakehouse and Lotte's Homebaked Goods & Cafe, which are a must-visit for enriching aroma-filled goodies.

Gahat/Kulhat dal and Bhatt (Soyabean)

Pahadi Gahat/Kulhat Ki Dal is an extremely nutritious and delicious lentil stew. It is also called "horse gram" as the whole seeds of this bean are fed to cattle, mainly horses/mules, which are used extensively for transportation in the Himalayas. Bhatt or soyabean is extremely healthy for its high protein content and is locally grown in the villages surrounding Mussoorie. An essential part of paahdi cuisine, this lenti,l along with chowlai saag, mandua  (finger millets) ki roti, bhatt (a variety of soybean) curry, and bichchu ghas (stinging ghas), forms a wholesome meal and can be enjoyed at the JW Marriott Cafe in Mussoorie. This meal is also served in the annual Winterline carnival food fest on Mall Road. Several kirana shops in Landour sell gahat ki dal. Also, you may find street vendors selling this dal in the Library or Kulri (The Mall), when it comes fresh from the villages.

Corn villages - The Quaint Villages Of Sainji & Bhatoli 

About 15 kilometres past Mussoorie, past the Kempty Falls, lie Sainji and Bhatoli villages, which are distinctive and famous for each house is decorated with corn cobs. Dried corn is strung together and hung outside homes as a symbol of prosperity. The more the number of cobs, the more prosperous the household is deemed. Women are the breadwinners of the family also cook delicious meals comprising makki di roti (corn chapati) and walnut chutney. The houses also have a unique architectural style with short doors (for safety purposes) and are crafted out of deodar wood. You have to pick up some fresh corn and try out the home-made meals which the villagers so generously cook and offer.

Arsa

Arsa is traditionally served as a sweet dish during wedding celebrations and is also presented to the bride's in-laws' house in Garhwali households.

Made from a dough that comprises rice flour (can also soak and grind rice) and jaggery with some resins, it is eventually rolled into small balls or flattened like pooris and fried. 

Arsa can be found to be sold in Garhwali sweet shops in Mussoorie and Dehradun.

Peach, Plum, Apricot, Chestnuts, Walnuts

Yes, peaches, plums, apricots, and walnuts, not so common in Indian markets, abundantly grow in Mussoorie. As kids in the plains love climbing mango and guava trees, hill children are notorious for plucking juicy plums and apricots from trees. 

During the months of late April and May, dozens of villagers turn into street vendors and sell fresh peaches, plums, and apricots locally grown in the villages. The hills of Mussoorie, especially Landour, are teeming with walnut and chestnut trails. Walnuts and chestnuts are extensively sold in winter in rashan shops, as they provide internal warmth in winter. Roasted chestnuts, trust me, are de--li--ci--ous.

So the next time you are up in the hills, pick up and relish some or all of these hill natives. Not only do they boost the local economy and help small to medium-scale vendors and daily wage earners, but they also help you travel like a local.